Deb and I agreed to meet at 6:30 p.m. in front of the
restaurant. Dinner was scheduled for 7:00 p.m. We entered the
restaurant and were promptly served the Riesling as we stood around the
registration table in the bar area. I was wearing my white souvenir polo
shirt with the logo "New
Zealand" followed by the Maori name and translation "Aotearoa - Land
of the Long White Cloud". I thought it was appropriate for a New
Zealand wine dinner and so did the others. The winery representative began
asking about my New Zealand travels. I was honest about my limited
experience with New Zealand. I only visited the airport on a layover to
and from Sydney/Fiji.
But at least I've been there, didn't do much, but bought the souvenir (not a T)
shirt.
Deb and I found a table for four and sat next to the window where we could
observe both the inside of the restaurant and the outdoor-patio where several
guests were dining al fresco. We both share a delight in people watching
and our view was not a disappointment.
This was Deb's first visit to Yia-Yia's so I pointed out the
oak fired oven where they bake pizzas, smoke fish and meat and prepare some
wonderfully smoke-flavored sauces on their menu (e.g. smoked crimini mushroom
sauce for their signature
double-thick pork chop). We could also watch the chefs while they prepared
menu items because the grill is an open area and apart from the kitchen.
Appetizer: Pan-seared Serrano wrapped Yellowfin Tuna with wild mushroom basmati,
wasabi caviar and lemon mustard vinaigrette. Wine: 2000 Private Bin
Riesling
We were both surprised that the Riesling seemed much drier than we anticipated.
The generous portions of tuna were wrapped in thin slices of Spanish Serrano ham
that had a subtle hint of smokiness. Two of these wrapped morsels were
plated on top of a rectangular bed of basmati rice laced with wild mushrooms in
the center of the plate. Using compass points for
reference, the northern and southern poles of the plate contained a serving of
wasabi (green) tobiko caviar, while the eastern and western edges contained a
serving of bright orange tobiko caviar. Around the "cube' of rice
(app. 2.5" wide, 4" long, 1.5" deep) was the lemon mustard
vinaigrette. The tuna had been seared to perfection with a thin, outer layer of
gray that surrounded the inner red flesh. We both remarked that the seared
fresh
tuna had no fishy taste at all and bore no resemblance whatsoever to the stuff
that comes from a can. We laughed about growing up thinking that seafood
was tuna salad, salmon cakes or fish sticks. Fish in our childhood was
either from a frozen package of Mrs. Paul's or it came from a can. The
lemon mustard vinaigrette was obviously prepared with Dijon mustard and too much
of it might invoke an unexpected gasp. The caviar had a slightly salty taste and
those delicate eggs were tiny. At the next sip of wine I wondered if
someone had surreptitiously switched glasses with me. The wine had taken
on a totally different dimension when consumed with the appetizer.
Our servers were John, Than and Sara. Their cheerful, smiling faces were
always appearing whenever our glasses were nearly empty. The three of them
served the wine dinner guests (app.36) with nimble grace. The presentation
of each course was certainly a feast for the eyes.
Salad: Garlic shrimp, pea shoots and shiitake mushrooms with a saffron
onion ratatouille. Wine: 2000 Private Bin Chardonnay
This was a surprise. I wondered what pea shoots were. Deb and I
looked at the salad and we were both puzzled. The wilted greens in this
salad looked like bright green spinach. Deb picked at her salad because
she doesn't like spinach. The onions took on a characteristic yellow color
from the saffron. Joe, the wine rep, came to our table and explained that the
Chardonnay was fermented in stainless steel tanks. Deb thought it had a
pleasant burst on the tongue and I detected an earthiness in the bouquet that I
had mistaken as oak. Perhaps they used oak chips in the process? I
should have asked. When Than walked by I asked him if the wilted salad greens
were spinach. He thought it looked like spinach as well. He went to
the kitchen to ask the executive chef. A short while later he came back to
our table with a sample of fresh pea shoots in his hand. Pea shoots are
the choice leaves and tendrils of pea plants. The most desired shoots
include the top pair of small leaves (the tip), delicate tendrils attached to
the young stem, and maybe a few larger leaves or even blossoms. By showing
us the fresh shoot before it was steamed or wilted we could tell that it wasn't
spinach. Taste alone should have convinced us that it wasn't but the
appearance and texture were deceiving. The salad was also served chilled
(further cause of subterfuge), from a circular mold (the size and shape
suggested a large tuna can) with a dressing drizzled around it. The
finishing touch was those beautiful, dried red and green leaves (dried parsley
and???) that were sprinkled around the plate's rim and over the dressing.
Deb would have liked another glass of the Chardonnay but they started pouring
the next wine.
Entree #1: New Zealand poached and chilled green lip mussels, jumbo scallops,
tomato concasee, manchego crostini and a garlic parsley butter. Wine: 2000
Cellar Select Sauvignon Blanc
The first taste of the Sauvignon Blanc was pleasing. It didn't seem dry. The
entree was another chilled dish and I told Deb that the entire meal, so far,
could have been prepared several hours in advance and plated at the last moment.
My remark was to suggest a convenient way to serve many guests but was not
intended to cast doubt on the freshness or quality of food we were served.
The green lip mussels may have been a first for me. Separating the flesh from
the shell turned out to be a challenge on the first two. The last one was
a breeze. The tomato concasee was placed in the center of the plate.
The scallops and mussels alternated around their concassee hub with the crostini
on either side at the equator. Neither of us had seafood like that unless
we were visiting distant shores. Kansas lakes and rivers do provide some
excellent fresh fish but catfish, walleye and crappie aren't usually served
chilled over tomato concasee. Sara re-filled our glasses and I
complimented the food and service we were enjoying. Deb didn't care much
for the crostini - to dry and crunchy for her liking.
Entree #2: Peppered lamb loin with butternut squash, potato and Portobello
mushroom ragout and sun-dried cherry demiglace. Wine: 1999 Private Bin
Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot
The Cab/Merlot blend was very soft and seemed delightfully devoid of tannins.
I do like how the Aussies and NZers (I won't call them Kiwis) blend varietals to
produce a synergistic combination. The lamb was excellent and this was
another first for me. Lamb loin has a different texture than leg of lamb
and it resembled the best of beef or pork cuts. What surprised both of us was
the butternut squash. The chef explained that it had been coarsely mashed
and mixed with cream and cheese. I must give this a try at home. The
sun-dried cherry demiglace was not at all sweet, another pleasant surprise.
I think Deb and I would have been content to skip dessert if they would have
brought us more wine and butternut squash.
Dessert: Kiwi, papaya, pear sorbet with oven-dried apples and exotic
wildflower fruit compote. Wine: Warre's Otima Port 10-year Tawny Port was
excellent. Miniature scoops of each fruit sorbet were placed in a stemmed
glass and garnished with the dried apple slice and wildflower. The dried
apple slice was not a wedge slice, but a slice through the equator of the apple.
As we were served, John told us that every part of it was edible, including the
flower. This was indeed an evening of dining firsts for me. I am
certain it was the first time I had ever consumed a flower. Hmm. It didn't taste
like chicken. <giggle> Executive chef Michael Czaplewksi joined us
and received some much-deserved applause. We had a pleasant conversation
with him at our table.
Deb and I ordered coffee and the freshly-brewed French roast we received was
like icing on the cake. We left the restaurant at 9:45 and went for a
walk. I showed her where a recent jazz concert was held, near the fountain and
by the lakefront. The ducks were swimming by the concrete and rock shore
under the artificial light. [Camera fades to black and the director yells,
"Cut! That's a wrap, folks!"]
John Geckles is one of the many dedicated AIWF Board
Members of the Wichita Chaper, and a talented writer!